When it comes to street style, change is in the air if Day One at Pitti Uomo 92 in Florence is any indication.
The bi-annual trade fair, which runs for four days at the Fortezza da Basso, holds the sartorial key to what you'll be wearing next summer.
This is where trends are born and street style becomes the high street staple before you can even say 'ciao, andiamo ragazzi'.
Embracing the simple
Where the Pitti peacock has become known for his over zealous pursuit of colour and linen in every shade under the golden sun in the past few years, there was more monotone lusting this season.
Men rocked relaxed silhouettes to combat the blistering heat wave (it cracked mid 30s today), and a mellow sport elegance charm riffed on shades of hazelnut, crisp whites and beige this time around.
The humble chino continues to remain a bloke's best friend, but the European gents wore it slightly differently – some with raw edges, always cropped in length and tapered tight on calves, the occasional rolled cuff for ankle gazing and worn with plain T-shirts over slogan message peddling.
There were plenty of white, blues, mushroom, beige and pastel greens in this cotton rich chino department, but military green is the one to salute next summer.
When it comes to shirting – linen is still king, mostly worn over trousers in a loose fit (chest baring essential). Colour palette spanned crisp white, soft peach, pale grey, khaki green and dusty blue.
The dandy isn't dead but he's taken a quieter approach to his colourful summer life at Pitti. He is all about salmon pink and peach suits, summer check pants worn with soft pastel blazers and a wave of nautical stripe suits appear. They're playful, spirited and more bohemian at heart.
By way of comparison, the Pitti style parade was more inspired by the Beatles White Album than Cream's psychedelic past – muted meditative blasts of monotone over colour wipeout.
Street style puts the popular sneaker in a new spotlight for summer – no longer just content with being a sport luxe minimalist addition to your wardrobe, the Pitti lads took it to a bolder outfit inclusion. Embraced by the office gent to the millennial go getter, there was an abundance of sneakers in red, stripes, cargo green and navy/white combinations.
Loosen the suit
When it came to suiting styles, gents can still be found clinging to a Prohibition era silhouette and a '40s tailoring renaissance. We saw blokes serenade cream coloured chinos with a vintage inspired gingham blazer and matched with a striped tie for a modern lust for life. There is proof brown can still rule the summer palette – the key is mixing it with white or cream tones. Espresso tones are the winners here.
The deconstructed jacket reemerged as a cornerstone of men's style at Pitti – this season the stitching remains raw and a relaxed cut keeps it casual while lapels are getting wider and more pronounced. There's a new sport elegance emerging here – where tailoring isn't as structured and balancing your sartorial composition and fabric choices is what will make your summer outfit a hit or miss.
Cutting through the details
Pops of silk printed blazers also thrived – a nice diversion from the predictable linen brigade that weaves its way around the piazzas of Florence.
There's interesting takes on accessories too this year – from prayer beads tucked into chino pockets to mirrored lens sunglasses that nod to a '80s Tom Cruise in Top Gun and woven fabric arm bracelets that charm on surf-inspired cues. We saw guys carrying duffle sized bags – some with fringing, others in suede while summer's essential accessory is a panama hat that is just what was required under the Florentine sun.
Check out the gallery above to see some of the best-dressed men at Pitti Uomo.