You only need to look at the men's shows in Paris in January to know something cool is happening in menswear.
Last year Virgil Abloh said streetwear was "gonna die." While rumours of that death may be exaggerated, signs of something new were evident everywhere, from the embroidered couture-like crystal blazers at Dior Men to the florals at Dries Van Noten.
The suiting was sharp, the colours were punchy and the boots were heeled (lift!).
Along with designers and creative directors pushing the boundaries, there's been a slew of cool new brands emerging or established brands launching their first menswear collections.
They're worth knowing about because they're taking tailoring in new directions, in cut and fabrics, and re-thinking ideas of luxury, collectability and indeed, masculinity.
Matchesfashion.com has just launched Tokyo streetwear brand Ambush (which started out with unisex jewellery, beloved by the likes of Kanye West and Pharrell Williams) and Paco Rabanne's first menswear collection. Julien Dossena, the 36 year-old creative director of Paco Rabanne has been praised for making the sexy Spanish brand known for its chainmail pieces hot again.
He said ahead of the launch of his men's collection, which features floral prints and a collaboration with the graphic designer Peter Saville, that today's man is "a bit of a dandy who feels very free to mix proportions, fabrics and prints in a unique way."
Who wouldn't want to dress like that?
Menswear kicks up a gear
Damien Paul, head of menswear at Matchesfashion.com, says it's a great time for men's clothes.
"I am excited by so many brands at the moment, we are seeing designers who are looking to work in a more responsible way by either using deadstock fabrics for their collections and working in alternative [ways] to create their collections," he says.
New brands currently piquing Paul's radar include Ahluwalia Studio, Ludovic de Saint Sernin and Umit Benan's B+ . He says he always follows what British designer Craig Green does keenly, listing Green's premiere show in Paris this season as a "stand-out moment."
Paul says these new brands sit well alongside Matchesfashion's big sellers, the likes of Loewe, Rick Owens and Raf Simons. The Matchesfashion customer, he says, wants pieces that are collectible and elevated.
All of which he says is in keeping with where menswear is heading.
"The first thing I noticed at the shows this season is there has been a definite move away from the branded sportswear influence. There was a definite shift towards tailoring but in a modern fashion way. Also a shift to leather shoes and boots. All of this is a refreshing palette cleanser, a new way of looking at menswear," he says.
Just good business
Olie Arnold, style director at Mr Porter, says discovering cool new labels each year to stock on the site is essential.
This year he's excited by super sharp Neapolitan tailoring brand Kiton, where each piece is handmade, cool sporty label Casablanca, which is helmed by Charaf Tajer, a former collaborator with Virgil Abloh, and the summer-ready Odyssee, which trades in luxe Italian fabrics.
The brands that will do well, he says, have a "strong sense of identity and the ability to push the needle forward in terms of design and fabrication."
As well as that, Arnold believes the Mr Porter customer is more conscious than ever. About style sure, but also about the environment and how his clothes are made.
"Our customers are also becoming more conscious and socially responsible when it comes to their purchases – this development in consumer behaviour is set to continue and we will see men aligning with brands that take sustainability seriously," he says.