Not every brand plays it safe come Fair time.
The following debuts from the SIHH watch fair in Geneva deliver the time of day with an edge to satisfy anyone looking for something different.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Carbon
Subtlety and seriousness are not words you'll find in the Roger Dubuis stylebook, but don't be fooled. Behind the theatrical looks of these timepieces lies a serious self-winding movement, here fashioned and forged from carbon. A serious price, too – around $85,000.
Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar
For once the public relations pitch doesn't lie. "In a market saturated with oversized watches and logos emblazoned everywhere, H. Moser & Cie. boldly presents a watch that is simplicity itself: the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept in a limited edition of 10 timepieces in white gold.
"As the ultimate expression of minimalism and purity, with neither logo nor index – stripped even of the small seconds dial – this perpetual calendar reveals its timeless beauty." And the good news – Moser models are about to come to Australia.
SIHH newcomer Hautlence showed its sporty Invictus chronograph in an eye-catching red-and-black colour scheme, "perpetuating an invincible gentlemen rebels' spirit". The movement is skeletonised and the dial built on several levels, giving a three-dimensional effect. The case is bead-blasted grade 2 titanium.
HYT H2 Tradition
Don't be fooled by the word tradition. From its beginnings, SIHH newcomer HYT has blazed new trails, using pressure and fluid to indicate the time of day. This model is about as close as the brand gets to a normal-looking watch.
MB&F Horological Machine No.6 SV
The SV stands for sapphire vision, referring to the material that opens up the wonders of this time machine from another SIHH first-timer. The curves of two transparent crystal plates sandwich a precious metal "streamliner" case band, creating two horological amphitheatres revealing the hand-finished micro engineering.
Franck Muller Vanguard Backswing
Not at SIHH, but exhibiting at its manufacture nearby, Franck Muller teed off the year with this wrist wonder. Thanks to a central swing counter, the owner of the Backswing will be able to keep a record of all his strokes. Coloured score and reset push buttons enable the setting of the counter mechanism, which is visible through its open-worked hands.
Scroll through the gallery to see six of the most head-turning watches at this year's SIHH.